A military-watch revival becomes more interesting when it stops being a revival. The new Benrus Type 3X takes the 1970s Type I and Type II as its starting point, then adds a GMT complication and contemporary materials after development input from former U.S. Special Forces veterans.

The 42mm case combines composite carbon and titanium and measures 12.5mm thick. Its broad, nearly lugless profile echoes Benrus’s military watches, while a sapphire crystal, rotating timing bezel, and 20 ATM water resistance bring the construction up to modern tool-watch expectations. The Type 3X comes in green and black executions, each supplied with a hook-and-loop fabric strap plus a black rubber strap.

Inside is an ETA 2893 automatic movement with a quick-set 24-hour GMT hand, hacking seconds, a 28,800-vph frequency, and roughly 42 hours of power reserve. The GMT function is the clearest break from the original formula: instead of reproducing a simple issued watch, the Type 3X adds a second time zone for contemporary travel and field use.

That distinction also separates it from the Benrus Type II, a more direct modern interpretation of the historical contract watch. The Type 3X asks what the same functional brief might produce now rather than what the old watch looked like then.

Benrus prices both Type 3X versions at $2,950. They are available now.