MB&F rarely needs help making a watch conspicuous, but the new SP One Pavée changes the character of one of its most restrained designs without changing the mechanism underneath. The 38mm Special Project One moves into 18-karat white gold and receives 255 diamonds totaling 1.608 carats.

The setting is distributed rather than concentrated on the bezel: 165 stones cover the case, 55 line the inner beveled edge, 14 sit on the crown, and another 21 appear on the white-gold pin buckle. A deep-blue PVD-coated inclined dial remains at six o’clock, while the exposed barrel and balance retain the triangular floating architecture that made the original SP One unusual within MB&F’s catalog.

The in-house hand-wound movement uses 189 components and 31 jewels, runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour, and provides a 72-hour power reserve. The case measures 38mm across and 41.9mm lug to lug, with front and rear sapphire crystals and 30 meters of water resistance. Those relatively compact dimensions keep the gem setting from turning the watch into a physically oversized jewelry piece.

The Pavée is therefore a material reinterpretation rather than a new complication, but the execution is substantial enough to avoid reading as a simple dial or color change.

For a different example of independent watchmaking using unusual materials, see the Venezianico Nereide Opale. MB&F prices the SP One Pavée at CHF 78,000 before taxes, approximately $104,000 in the U.S.

MB&F SP One Pavée

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CHF 63,000+

• Case Material: 18K white gold, Daimond
• Case Diameter: 38mm
• Movement: SP One
• Water Resistance: 30 meters