Essaouira means “the little rampart” in Arabic, a reference to the sturdy fortress walls the envelope this coastal city in Morocco. Continual occupation over the last few millennia has created a cultural mosaic that blends classic Arabic and Berber elements with everything contributions from the Dutch, Portuguese, English, Spanish, and more.
In the mid-18th century, Mohammed III chose Essaouira, then referred to as Mogador (a name still used by some locals and businesses), as a new spot from which to wield political power and control trade. Mohammed used a French engineer and other European artisans to construct a walled city containing royal quarters, trade buildings and other essential fortifications.
From that birth of modern-day Essaouira sprung a vibrant hub that’s more laid back than the jam-packed metropolis of Marrakech but just as fascinating, if not more so, thanks to intoxicating mash-up of beach vibes and desert chic, and significantly more affordable, too.
Book a Room
For visitors looking for a central location to all of Essaouira’s most interesting attractions, it’s hard to beat the Riad Lyon Mogador. Enjoy the modern aesthetic of the 10 guestrooms and start your morning with breakfast served on the rooftop terrace with a side of 360-degree panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the city itself.
Les Matins Bleus as an 18th-century residence turned primary school turned funky holiday house. Rooms are an explosion of local charm and color, and the cook’s Moroccan pancakes are second to none.
For peace and quiet outside the city limits, there’s Villa Anouk, a hidden retreat nestled down a dirt road 20 minutes’ drive from Essaouira. Don’t let the relatively remoteness fool you; great restaurants and sandy beaches are closer than you think, and the stunningly appointed neo-farmhouse is well worth the minor hassle of renting a car.
Dine & Drink
Head to Taros Café for lunch, dinner, and lots of live music with a rooftop view of the sea and main square. Food is a tasty marriage of local flavors and French technique—think Camembert roti and club sandwiches with smoked salmon—and the place is almost always buzzing with energy.
The coolest of the cool convene at La Table by Madada, a seafood-focused restaurant run by a young chef with a ton of talent and a solid feel for seasonal cuisine. The monkfish skewers and spider crab app are both phenomenal, but the smart play is letting the chef work her magic a la minute on whatever fresh catch was just hauled in. La Table also offers cooking workshops; take a day out from sightseeing and learn to make couscous, pastilles, and tajines just like a native.
Food is a tasty marriage of local flavors and French technique—think Camembert roti and club sandwiches with smoked salmon—and the place is almost always buzzing with energy.
Authenticity reigns at The Tru (the alley behind Mechouar Hotel), Essaouira’s version of a hole-in-the-wall tavern. Cheap drinks, good music, and the kind of friendly local-to-tourist chit chat seasoned travelers long for.
See the Sights
Scale the ramparts that ring the city and you’ll be in good historical company. Orson Welles filmed his 1952 movie Othello round these here parts, and you may recognize the epic stone structures from a few episodes of Game of Thrones as well.
Soak up local history at Sidi Mohammed ben Abdellah Museum. There are a ton of artifacts showcasing local Berber culture, and the museum itself is a stellar example of Essaouira’s architecture.
Don’t forget that Essaouira is a port city. Active outdoorsy types love to hit the water for some windsurfing or kitesurfing, or you can hitch a camel ride or cycle along the promenade and enjoy the waves from a safe distance.
Stop & Shop
Top, can’t miss stop: Le Souk (95 Souk Jdid), the outdoor market that welcomes peddlers offering everything from handwoven rugs to smoked meats. It’s a truly awe-inspiring sight. Explore the shop fronts, load up on souvenirs, or just enjoy the gregarious vendors who are almost as eager for a chat as a sale.
Keep an eye out for Essaouira specialties like boxes and other knickknacks made of marbled slabs of thuya wood, vintage silk and contemporary wool blankets, and anything argan oil.
There are also tons of small specialty shops and art galleries in the medina, the old-world center of the city. Keep an eye out for Essaouira specialties like boxes and other knickknacks made of marbled slabs of thuya wood, vintage silk and contemporary wool blankets, and anything argan oil—the famously luxurious oil is made nearby and works as everything from an all-natural lip moisturizer to a nutty base for homemade salad dressing.
What to Know Before You Go
The Best Way to Travel: Essaouira-Mogador Airport services both domestic and international carriers. It’s about a nine-hour flight from NYC to Essaouira via Casablanca and there are direct flights from Luton in the UK. It’s best to catch a taxi (ask for a flat rate before getting in) or hotel transfer from the airport to the city, as the bus route is inconvenient and unpredictable. If you’re coming from Marrakech, Supratours offers a roughly 3-hour bus ride to Essaouira for a reasonable price.
When to Go: Spring and fall in Essaouira offer the best walking around weather, but April and November is when the windsurfers waft in.
Local Currency: Dirham
Native Language: Arabic
How to Get Around: Walking is the best way to get around Essaouira during the day, but after dark it’s safer to take a taxi (they use fixed prices based on the journey and are up for negotiation). Public transportation is limited, but there are koutchi, horse carriages, offering rides along the main thoroughfare.
Plan to: Fill up your phone or camera’s memory card. Essaouira is a city of bright colors and contrasts, and you can’t take a single step without seeing a vignette deserving of its own photo shoot.
Here’s a Hint: If you have somewhere you have to be, you’ll want an exit plan. Essaouira is notorious for turning visitors into residents, and it’s surprisingly easy to plan a 48-hour trip only to struggle to tear yourself away after nearly a week.